Sewers log: too many cups of tea to count...

I used to sew all over the place. I would find fabric I liked and sew something. There was not thought process to my sewing and I had a closet full of clothes that did not coordinate with each other and I didn't wear. So last year, I decided to be more mindful in my sewing and plan my wardrobe. 

I don't know why I didn't do this years ago.

I feel so much less stress in my projects now.  I have veered a little from the original plan because one of the styles did not flatter me once I made my muslin. But apart from that, it's been smooth like butter!  I can't wait until I finish all of these pieces!  Some of the pieces I've already completed and some are a work in progress.  Two pieces are missing below, the trench coat and V9029 in cream (the color swatch didn't show up when I scanned the fabric).  I decided to compete in the great module sew along hosted by  @tomkatstitcherycarmel and @carlamayfield5.  So I need to sew 6 items, 3 tops, 2 bottoms, and a topper by the end of March, so most of this WILL get done by then!  Super fingers crossed anyway that I finish 6 items in less than 2 months. 

Sewers log: 5 cups of tea

A few years ago, I saw this photo someone in the Pinterest rabbit hole.  I have no idea where the original shirt is from, but I loved the idea of combining denim and a pussy bow. 

Last year when I planned the pieces I wanted to sew, I incorporated the shirt into my plans.  I had some denim in my stash from JoAnn's, I honestly don't even remember why I purchased the denim.  I combined vintage Simplicity 8594 with the bow from view F from Vogue 9029 (which is also Vogue 9772 for some reason).   I love the sleeves from the vintage Simplicity top and they are my new favorite sleeves and will have to go on pretty much all future tops. I wanted an exposed zipper on the back neck, it is also functional so I can fit this bad boy over my head.   

I did make a couple of adjustments to the bodice, the patternmaker apparently has really perky boobs, mine - not so much. So I adjusted the dart placement. I did not cut the original pattern, I copied the pattern on some nonfusible interfacing and then slashed and repositioned the dart.  In the photo below you can see the plus in a circle is where my apex is and you can see the dart ain't quite there.  To make a bust dart adjustment, I drew a rectangle around the dart and lowered it to the reality of my apex.  It is really easy to do and I recommend checking all dart placements before sewing a final garment so your boobs don't look wonky.  

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Sewers log: 28 cups of tea

This coat was a labor of love.  I've been wanting to make a trench for a while, but hadn't found the right fabric, but had had this pattern for probably almost 8 years. Then I found a great trench for a decent price a few years ago from Banana Republic, so I didn't have a need to make one. I'd still be wearing it, if I hadn't gained weight and now my ass won't fit into it.

So, back to sewing one.

I found some gorgeous twill when I was in NYC in September from Swan Fabrics. This is McCalls 5525. The pattern is pretty simple to follow, but has a lot of pieces.  I combined views as I didn't want the traditional trench style with gun flaps and d-rings and all.  I shortened the length by a few inches, I don't remember exactly how many, but I'd guess at least 4 inches. I also cut the under collar 1/8" narrower than the collar. This is to help the collar roll towards the bottom so the under collar isn't visible from the top. I decided the sleeve straps were going to be too much going on with the sleeves and buttons, so I left them off. Can we talk about those buttons??? So gorgeous and much more stylish than brown ones.

I also widened the epaulets and did not follow the pattern directions because every time I sewed them, the point was not even.  I probably sewed them about 5 times, there were many a curse words thrown at my machine on that afternoon.  The pattern calls for one piece folded in half, I cut two pieces instead.

The topstitching on this bad boy went on for days. I thought I wasn't going to have enough top stitch thread, but I decided to top stitch on one side of the seams only once, instead of twice. The thread is super thick, I used a long stitch length, 3 on my machine. I tried only using the thick thread for the top thread and all purpose for the bobbin, but the stitches did not look right.

I did kick the detailing up a notch.  The front facing is lined with hair canvas. I added shoulder tape, sleeve heads, hair canvas at the hem, muslin back stay, muslin interfacing at vent, coat chain, and piping at the seam of the lining and facing. The lining is hand-stitched. And one can't forget my handmade by Nykkiee label. My mom bought these for me years ago and I thought I had used them all, but I found a few tucked away.  I really love added labels to garments, it's makes them all that more special.

I originally wanted to do hand stitched button holes, but I forgot to order the correct thread and gimp. So I did machine button holes and had to use an all purpose thread for the bobbin because the thread kept getting knotted up when I used the top stitching thread. The button holes were ugly, so I ended up hand stitching over the machine stitching.  They are meh, but for my first go at hand-stitched button holes, I think they are alright.  (This photo came out a lot darker than I wanted, but I didn't feel like retaking it)

I found the lining at JoAnns. I wanted a darker color to make the lining pop and as soon as I saw this, I knew it was going to be the perfect match.  The floral print is a bit too big for the under collar and pocket welts, so I found a coordinating print.  

A book for Henry

A few years ago, I started making quiet books for my friends grandkids and kids.  I really enjoy making them because they challenge me and get my creative juices flowing. This book was for my friend's son who as you can probably guess, likes trucks!

Bring me a mai tai!

I have a mild obsession with Hawaiian print fabric. It reminds me of 1950s Tiki parties - which I would LOVE to throw one day.  I wanted to make a full skirt in a fun fabric, and this skirt was born! 

The pattern is a self drafted gathered skirt with a back lapped zipper and button.  I made the tie/sash removable so it can be worn with or without. And of course their are side pockets, because you know how us girls love our side pockets.  The fabric is a 100% cotton shirting fabric from Joann's. 

The case of the 5 month dresses

I offered to make some dresses for my friend Lisa's grand-daughters, so in December we went out to JoAnn's to find some fabric and a pattern she liked.  She picked out Simplicity 8270 which is a simple pull over dress. There are also leggings, but I just made the dress. She liked view D so she picked out contrasting fabric.

I thought, the dresses would take me no time to whip up and I could get them done in one afternoon. That's what I thought...

This fabric was a pain in the butt to work with. It shrank like there was no tomorrow and the purple faded almost 2 shades. Cutting it wasn't so bad except since it shrank so much, I needed more purple fabric. And of course by the time I made it back to JoAnn's they had a different dye lot. I didn't calculate enough fabric and once it shrank I didn't have enough to cut out for the second dress. So I went to JoAnn's again, and bought the 2 yards that was left on the bolt.  This time, even with the shrinking I fo' sure had enough.  AND the color did not fade.

So there are two dresses in two different shades of purple. I had already sewn the larger dress that is too shades lighter and I was not sewing more than I had to.  I will be honest and say I am not used to sewing with knits. This fabric was stretching all over the place, and yes I used the correct needle.

The neckline pattern piece is too small in both sizes I made. I cut it so it would stretch and it didn't. So I added almost 2 inches to the pieces  - yep, had to cut them again.

I had enough of that bloody purple fabric I made some headbands. They were easier to make and hopefully will fit their heads!

Tulle Glam

I have a small obsession with tulle skirts. I think it stems from my small obsession with Carrie Bradshaw's wardrobe and her fabulous tulle skirt outfits.  I didn't want a tutu, but wanted something a little more glam, so I self drafted a circle skirt pattern. I purchased the tulle from Joann's, and it's not as grey as I was hoping for, but I still love it.

Let me tell you tulle is a bitch to sew with. I lined it with a solid cotton quilting fabric, it might be broadcloth, but I don't remember.  There are ten layers of tulle and the waistband is cotton. I installed a back zip with a button on the waistband. I don't think the bottom is even, I didn't hem the tulle and I am just ok with an uneven hem because who is even looking at it.