At last.....

...I have finally finished Vogue 8333!!! Overall I like this pattern, it fits really well.  Despite the hand stitching lasting what seemed like a lifetime, I enjoyed the process of tailoring. It's on my agenda for sure to make another, and another.  

My muslin fit perfect, and then when I cut the fashion fabric the pattern expanded and I swear it expanded more by the time I added the buttons. Yeah, I'm not sure what happened there. So it's too big, but I am not undoing the lining to take it in now. That will be a summer project, because I need a break from this bad boy.  

The case of the never ending handstitching.

I have completed the pad stitching, but not the hand stitching and I think I have tendinitis.  I've been loading up on the turmeric tea to help with any extra inflammation and claw hand all this hand stitching is causing.  

This past weekend, I took in the seams about 1/4" each, added the facing, stitched the seams to the underlining, added the back stay and finished the hem.  

I drafted the back stay from the pattern.  Measure 8" down from the center back, 3" down from the armhole and connect the dots.  

The directions said to blind stitch the hem, but I didn't see the point since I am adding a lining, so I attached the top and bottom with caste stitching.  

I'm determined to finish this bad boy while it's still cold! Let's say in the next two weeks...ok, well maybe 3, but shooting for 2. :) 

Nicole and padstitching....

I haven't forgotten about Vogue 8333, I swear.  

Not too long after my last post, I was sent to NYC for three weeks for work (I know so horrible), the week before was a rush to prepare.  Then two days after my return, off to Paris I was for a week (again I know so horrible).  The weekend after Thanksgiving I busted out the jacket and finished the muslin, then ripped it apart to cut the fashion fabric - without posting pictures.  I don't think my patience and discipline works for taking these step by step pictures - or should I say lack of patience and discipline. 

So anyhoo....I didn't have enough fabric of what I wanted to use, so on to plan B.  I found some cotton herringbone fabric from Joann's and decided it would be good test fabric for my first attempt at a tailored blazer.  

Here we are all nice and cut out....what you can't see is the silk organza underlining.  Muslin on silk organza, cut. Silk organza on fashion fabric, cut.  Then baste underlining to fashion fabric.  Once the underlining was basted, I marked all of my darts and shapes with thread.  

Then.....

Came the canvas.  This photo shows the extra shoulder support I added to my front canvas.  This ensure the front won't droop once the shoulder pads are in.  I machine stitched the added support to the canvas - the yellow lines are about 1" apart and marked for guide.  Once machine stitched, I hand stitched the canvas to the front using catch stitch - you can see them in this photo.  

Then....

It's pad stitch time on the lapel.  As you can see, I need some serious work on my pad stitching.  First of all, about 90% of my stitches are even pad stitches.  Then by the time I got the kinda hang of it, my pad stitches aren't even.  I also taped the lapel using seam tape.  You can also use twill tape.  I have oodles of the seam tape that I need to get rid off, so I'm using it everywhere.  

So that's where I stand tonight.

I've been checking out tons of other sources on adding canvas to the lapels.  The instructions on the pattern are a bit confusing at times. There are added "couture" instructions which are great because it takes your skills up a notch, but there isn't always a photo and you're left wondering what in the world they are talking about.  

I am determined to finish this blazer while the weather is still cold.