Sewers log: 28 cups of tea

This coat was a labor of love.  I've been wanting to make a trench for a while, but hadn't found the right fabric, but had had this pattern for probably almost 8 years. Then I found a great trench for a decent price a few years ago from Banana Republic, so I didn't have a need to make one. I'd still be wearing it, if I hadn't gained weight and now my ass won't fit into it.

So, back to sewing one.

I found some gorgeous twill when I was in NYC in September from Swan Fabrics. This is McCalls 5525. The pattern is pretty simple to follow, but has a lot of pieces.  I combined views as I didn't want the traditional trench style with gun flaps and d-rings and all.  I shortened the length by a few inches, I don't remember exactly how many, but I'd guess at least 4 inches. I also cut the under collar 1/8" narrower than the collar. This is to help the collar roll towards the bottom so the under collar isn't visible from the top. I decided the sleeve straps were going to be too much going on with the sleeves and buttons, so I left them off. Can we talk about those buttons??? So gorgeous and much more stylish than brown ones.

I also widened the epaulets and did not follow the pattern directions because every time I sewed them, the point was not even.  I probably sewed them about 5 times, there were many a curse words thrown at my machine on that afternoon.  The pattern calls for one piece folded in half, I cut two pieces instead.

The topstitching on this bad boy went on for days. I thought I wasn't going to have enough top stitch thread, but I decided to top stitch on one side of the seams only once, instead of twice. The thread is super thick, I used a long stitch length, 3 on my machine. I tried only using the thick thread for the top thread and all purpose for the bobbin, but the stitches did not look right.

I did kick the detailing up a notch.  The front facing is lined with hair canvas. I added shoulder tape, sleeve heads, hair canvas at the hem, muslin back stay, muslin interfacing at vent, coat chain, and piping at the seam of the lining and facing. The lining is hand-stitched. And one can't forget my handmade by Nykkiee label. My mom bought these for me years ago and I thought I had used them all, but I found a few tucked away.  I really love added labels to garments, it's makes them all that more special.

I originally wanted to do hand stitched button holes, but I forgot to order the correct thread and gimp. So I did machine button holes and had to use an all purpose thread for the bobbin because the thread kept getting knotted up when I used the top stitching thread. The button holes were ugly, so I ended up hand stitching over the machine stitching.  They are meh, but for my first go at hand-stitched button holes, I think they are alright.  (This photo came out a lot darker than I wanted, but I didn't feel like retaking it)

I found the lining at JoAnns. I wanted a darker color to make the lining pop and as soon as I saw this, I knew it was going to be the perfect match.  The floral print is a bit too big for the under collar and pocket welts, so I found a coordinating print.