Sewers log: 28 cups of tea

This coat was a labor of love.  I've been wanting to make a trench for a while, but hadn't found the right fabric, but had had this pattern for probably almost 8 years. Then I found a great trench for a decent price a few years ago from Banana Republic, so I didn't have a need to make one. I'd still be wearing it, if I hadn't gained weight and now my ass won't fit into it.

So, back to sewing one.

I found some gorgeous twill when I was in NYC in September from Swan Fabrics. This is McCalls 5525. The pattern is pretty simple to follow, but has a lot of pieces.  I combined views as I didn't want the traditional trench style with gun flaps and d-rings and all.  I shortened the length by a few inches, I don't remember exactly how many, but I'd guess at least 4 inches. I also cut the under collar 1/8" narrower than the collar. This is to help the collar roll towards the bottom so the under collar isn't visible from the top. I decided the sleeve straps were going to be too much going on with the sleeves and buttons, so I left them off. Can we talk about those buttons??? So gorgeous and much more stylish than brown ones.

I also widened the epaulets and did not follow the pattern directions because every time I sewed them, the point was not even.  I probably sewed them about 5 times, there were many a curse words thrown at my machine on that afternoon.  The pattern calls for one piece folded in half, I cut two pieces instead.

The topstitching on this bad boy went on for days. I thought I wasn't going to have enough top stitch thread, but I decided to top stitch on one side of the seams only once, instead of twice. The thread is super thick, I used a long stitch length, 3 on my machine. I tried only using the thick thread for the top thread and all purpose for the bobbin, but the stitches did not look right.

I did kick the detailing up a notch.  The front facing is lined with hair canvas. I added shoulder tape, sleeve heads, hair canvas at the hem, muslin back stay, muslin interfacing at vent, coat chain, and piping at the seam of the lining and facing. The lining is hand-stitched. And one can't forget my handmade by Nykkiee label. My mom bought these for me years ago and I thought I had used them all, but I found a few tucked away.  I really love added labels to garments, it's makes them all that more special.

I originally wanted to do hand stitched button holes, but I forgot to order the correct thread and gimp. So I did machine button holes and had to use an all purpose thread for the bobbin because the thread kept getting knotted up when I used the top stitching thread. The button holes were ugly, so I ended up hand stitching over the machine stitching.  They are meh, but for my first go at hand-stitched button holes, I think they are alright.  (This photo came out a lot darker than I wanted, but I didn't feel like retaking it)

I found the lining at JoAnns. I wanted a darker color to make the lining pop and as soon as I saw this, I knew it was going to be the perfect match.  The floral print is a bit too big for the under collar and pocket welts, so I found a coordinating print.  

A book for Henry

A few years ago, I started making quiet books for my friends grandkids and kids.  I really enjoy making them because they challenge me and get my creative juices flowing. This book was for my friend's son who as you can probably guess, likes trucks!

Bring me a mai tai!

I have a mild obsession with Hawaiian print fabric. It reminds me of 1950s Tiki parties - which I would LOVE to throw one day.  I wanted to make a full skirt in a fun fabric, and this skirt was born! 

The pattern is a self drafted gathered skirt with a back lapped zipper and button.  I made the tie/sash removable so it can be worn with or without. And of course their are side pockets, because you know how us girls love our side pockets.  The fabric is a 100% cotton shirting fabric from Joann's. 

The case of the 5 month dresses

I offered to make some dresses for my friend Lisa's grand-daughters, so in December we went out to JoAnn's to find some fabric and a pattern she liked.  She picked out Simplicity 8270 which is a simple pull over dress. There are also leggings, but I just made the dress. She liked view D so she picked out contrasting fabric.

I thought, the dresses would take me no time to whip up and I could get them done in one afternoon. That's what I thought...

This fabric was a pain in the butt to work with. It shrank like there was no tomorrow and the purple faded almost 2 shades. Cutting it wasn't so bad except since it shrank so much, I needed more purple fabric. And of course by the time I made it back to JoAnn's they had a different dye lot. I didn't calculate enough fabric and once it shrank I didn't have enough to cut out for the second dress. So I went to JoAnn's again, and bought the 2 yards that was left on the bolt.  This time, even with the shrinking I fo' sure had enough.  AND the color did not fade.

So there are two dresses in two different shades of purple. I had already sewn the larger dress that is too shades lighter and I was not sewing more than I had to.  I will be honest and say I am not used to sewing with knits. This fabric was stretching all over the place, and yes I used the correct needle.

The neckline pattern piece is too small in both sizes I made. I cut it so it would stretch and it didn't. So I added almost 2 inches to the pieces  - yep, had to cut them again.

I had enough of that bloody purple fabric I made some headbands. They were easier to make and hopefully will fit their heads!

Tulle Glam

I have a small obsession with tulle skirts. I think it stems from my small obsession with Carrie Bradshaw's wardrobe and her fabulous tulle skirt outfits.  I didn't want a tutu, but wanted something a little more glam, so I self drafted a circle skirt pattern. I purchased the tulle from Joann's, and it's not as grey as I was hoping for, but I still love it.

Let me tell you tulle is a bitch to sew with. I lined it with a solid cotton quilting fabric, it might be broadcloth, but I don't remember.  There are ten layers of tulle and the waistband is cotton. I installed a back zip with a button on the waistband. I don't think the bottom is even, I didn't hem the tulle and I am just ok with an uneven hem because who is even looking at it.

New Look 6560

I've been looking for a wrap top pattern that was simple and versatile and when I found New Look 6560, I knew I found the perfect pattern! There are several sleeve and collar options and view C only has 3 pattern pieces (not including the facing). My pattern is actually D0934, but New Look changed the pattern number to 6560.

The length is a little short, I forgot to add length to this fabric, but I have a second one on my dress form now that I added 2" too.  

Let's talk about how adorable this fabric is! There is a local fabric shop in town and when I first found this fabric I wanted to make a jumpsuit, but after doing a muslin the style was not flattering so I converted it to a top. And I couldn't be happier! 

Quiet book for Olivia

A few years ago I discovered quiet books. Cute handsewn books, mainly for toddlers. They are designed to improve fine motor skills and creativity for children.  I have made a several books for kids or grandkids of my friends and this is the latest. I think I love making these books more than I like sewing my own clothes. They really provide me an opportunity to get my creative juices flowing. 

Olivia's aunt really wanted a book for Olivia to play with while she was at church so I wanted to provide something that would be quiet and still allow Olivia room to explore and be imaginative. 

The letters are removable and allow Olivia to learn to spell her name. 

The basket strips all come open so she can practice her weaving skills.  The bumble bee can fly through the key rings. 

The sun is attached with a snap. And when the door to the Hen Hotel opens....

Peek-a-boo it's a soft hen sitting on her nest. 

The feathers are faux fur and the nest is twine. 

You can't see it, but this page is covered with netting. The idea is to push the buttons to match with the colors, green to the grass, blue to the cloud, and yellow towards the sun on the previous page. 

Garden time! All the veggies are removable, as is the top tomato. 

The cloud moves over the sun and....

Now we have rain! 

The lettuce is removable and all the fruit tree is interchangeable with apples and pears. The bunny comes off and is connected to a ribbon for the bucket of water on the well. So the well moves up and down to draw the water.  There is also a caterpillar that can be moved through the ribbon loops. 

The back of the book holds the soup pot for all of the veggies - Veggie soup time! Add a little salt and pepper, stir, and let it simmer!